Travel Blog Costa Rica

Resides the excellent coffee that is cultivated in the hills of the Central Valley around Heredia, Grecia, Atenas, Alajuela, Cartago, Sarchi and San Jose, there is another product considered to be black gold: cacao. Cacao is made from the seeds of the cacao tree with the scientific name of Theobroma cacao. This tree has a long history going back to pre-Colombian times. The cacao tree is native to Central America and the northern part of the continent of South America and the use of it seeds were known to the ancient Maya culture, who connected the ‘Ka kaw’ seeds with fertility. It is said that the word chocolate comes from the Indigenous Nahuatl word xoclatl, which is believed to be a combination of xocolli (bitter) and atl (water). Other scientists prefer the theory that it derives from a combination of the Mayan word chocol and the Aztec word atl (water) that was made up by the Spanish conquerors. Since most of these ancient sources have disappeared or are incomplete the controversy will go in scientific circles.It is said that the Mayans and Aztecs brewed a drink of cacao, mixed with vanilla, chili and pepper. The beans were so precious that they were used as a currency by the Aztecs. The Spanish conqueror Fernando Cortez was the first to bring a large quantity of cacao beans to Europe. From there the cacao trees were introduced to the east in Ceylon, Indonesia and Malaysia. On the American continent the cultivation of cacao spread to Brazil. Also in the horn of Africa cacao plantations were developed. The cacao seeds ripen inside the fruit, where fungus starts a fermentation process that raises the temperature in the fruit up to 50 degrees centigrade. The color of the bean changes from purple to brown and is ready to be harvested after five days and are sun dried to be ready to process or exported. It took centuries to refine the techniques of producing chocolate from cacao beans. Only in 1825 the Dutch cacao merchant Van Houten discovered the process to extract the grease from the beans and laid the foundation for the high quality chocolate we enjoy today. Nowadays in Costa Rica most cacao can be found on the planes of the Caribbean in the Province of Limon. Especially the Talamanca region has a high density of cacao cultivation. In the culture of the Bribri Indians cacao plays an important role, because a ceremonial drink is brewed from the beans. Coffee and chocolate have always been a very good combination and since Costa Rica produces both, there are many specialties for sale and to be savored. In the neighborhood of the little towns of Cahuita, Puerto Viejo and Manzanillo there are some organic chocolate producers who sell different flavored kinds of chocolate and show the process how it is made. Close to Bribri the original cacao taste can be experienced, because the Indigenous families have discovered that processing cacao on a small traditional and organic scale can generate a small income. It’s there that you can come close at it gets to the ancient tradition of cacao as it started with the Mayans and Aztecs.

The small town of Upala is located in the north of Costa Rica’s Province of Alajuela, no more than 10 kilometers away from the border with Nicaragua. The district of Upala covers close to 250,000 square kilometers and has a population of around 14,000 people. The main activity in Upala is agriculture and most people live of cultivating rice and raising cattle. Upala is the place where all the products and cattle are traded and many people visit the town to do business. Most people just pass trough Upala on their way from and to the border of Nicaragua or stay a night over in one of the many cheap hotels. Upala has no special tourist attraction, but the hard to reach Cano Negro National Wildlife Refuge is only 40 kilometers to the east and can be reached from Upala. Visitors of this park have the option to take bus from San Jose in the Central Valley to Upula or the town east of the park Los Chiles. It’s a long almost 200 kilometer long drive. There is good reason to visit Upala on the 12th of October though, because that is the date the Fiesta del Maiz (Feast of Corn) is celebrated. It is a tribute to the corn, which plays an important role in the Indigenous culture of the Guatuso’s, the original occupants of the Upala region. The precious corn is praised with a parade of people dressed in clothes made out of corn plants and grains. A traditional alcoholic drink is made from fermented corn and is called ‘chicha’. It can be savored during these festivities. Strangely enough Upala used to be a district of the canton of Grecia, far away and with no mutual interests. In 1970 this was corrected and Upala was declared a autonomous district. After solving the practical problem of not having furniture nor typewriters the Upala local government has worked on the development of the region ever since. Roads were improved, decimating travel times to other towns in the vicinity and in 1976 water and electricity became available to the citizens of Upala. The border zone received a lot attention during the civil war in Nicaragua in the 1980’s, when many people left that country in search for safety and better economic prospects. International aid organizations injected millions of colones in the area. Coming as far as Upala you might consider crossing the border with Nicaragua, because the biggest sweet water lake ‘Lago de Nicaragua’ with breathtaking views is situated practically along the border.

The small town of Bribri in the Province of Limon carries the name of one of the largest remaining Indigenous tribes in Costa Rica; the Bribri Indians. Bribri is a very small town, located just 15 kilometres inland from Puerto Viejo de Limon on the Caribbean coast in the Talamanca region and is surrounded by banana plantations that cover the valley all the way into Panama. Beyond the town of Bribri in the dense jungle of the Talamanca hills there are several indigenous reserves and several isolated, hard to reach communities. The town of Bribri has a bus terminal, several stores, small local restaurants that serve typical food and communal services such as town hall, clinic, police station, courthouse and schools. The Talamanca area is the region where the Bribri Indians survived the foreign influences of the Spanish conquerors thanks to its isolated location. Since pre-Columbian times Costa Rica was the territory of several Indigenous tribes. At the time of the arrival of the Spanish invaders it is calculated that more than 250,000 indigenous people lived in Costa Rica. The Indigenous tribe of the Boruca’s on the Pacific side in the Province of Puntarenas suffered great losses resisting the conquerors and the few remaining Boruca’s now live in a reserve close to the village of Buenos Aires. The Bribri’s were more fortunate to live in the hostile Talamanca mountains and could preserve their traditions and way of life. It is estimated that 5,200 Bribri Indians live nowadays in the in area between the Talamanca Mountains range and the north of Panama. The Bribri’s are truly one with nature and live of cultivating, rice, corn, plantains and cacao. More than 120 different plants are known to be grown for medicinal purposes. Their traditional handicraft is very attractive to the visiting tourists and is sold in and around the town of Bribri, which can be easily by bus or car. From the Grand Terminal del Caribe in San Jose direct buses depart for Puerto Viejo de Limon and Sixaola. It is a short drive from the Caribbean coast from towns like Cahuita, Puerto Viejo and Manzanillo to Bribri, so even a ride by taxi is affordable. By car coming from the direction of Limon, instead of going straight ahead at the junction of Hone Creek, take the right exit towards Sixaola. From Bribri you can reach the nearby town of Bambu (it’s a bumpy, rough road) where a boat takes you further inland to the Indian reserves. Those kind of tours need to be organized upfront, because the Bribri clans has to have a meeting, where will be determined whether to receive you or not. But once your set, you will have a very interesting encounter with their social structure, fascinating religious beliefs and the way of life in perfect harmony with nature of the Bribri Indians. A well preserved culture that goes back thousands of years, but takes some effort to discover.

The town of Siquirres in the Province of Limon is of little tourist importance, but is a junction of the two roads leading to the city of Limon on the Caribbean Coast. Most people drive from San Jose out of the Central Valley following Route 32 through the mountains of the Braulio Carillo National Park towards Quapiles on the lowland plains. The next town on Route 32 is Siquirres, more or less half way between the mountains and the city of Limon. The other route from the Central Valley to the Caribbean leads through Cartago, upwards along the slopes of the Irazu Volcano passing the mountain town of Turrialba, famous for its volcano and cheese, an finally winding down connecting with Route 32 in Siquirres. Although the history of Siquirres goes back to pre-Colombian times, the town itself started to develop in the beginning of the 20th century. Before the arrival of the Spanish conquerors, the region around Siquirres was the territory of the Pococi Indians who established several settlements. The Spaniards attempted to create some settlements in the last half of the 16th century along the mouth of the Suerre River, now known as the Rio Pacuare, but they were swiftly abandoned. One century later in 1651 the Governor of the Province returned to the area of Siquirres to repopulate the old settlements and reopen the more than 140 kilometer long trail through the mountains leading to the Central Valley. The next impulse came when the construction of the railroad from San Jose to Limon started and the location known as Mile 36 was chosen to build a camp site for workers and a storage for material. With the completion of the railroad around the turn of the 20th century the town of Siquirres finally started to get shape. With the railroad company that turned into the United Fruit Company came the banana plantations and later the cultivation of pineapple. Nowadays it is a town that provides the passers through with everything they need, from gasoline to a nice plate of food. Siquirres is also the finish of the whitewater rafting tours on the majestic Pacuare River, from where transportation back to the Central Valley is arranged. The railroad is long gone and all remains are old unused tracks, but the road between San Jose and Limon still is one of the main traffic arteries of the country that can be clotted with slow moving trailers and trucks.

In the north of Costa Rica’s Province of Alajuela, all the way up to the border with Nicaragua, one of the most impressive tropical wetlands can be found. Cano Negro National Wildlife Refuge is an almost 10,000 hectares big, protected, uninhabited natural treasure. The best way to reach Cano Negro is by boat, departing form the town of Los Chiles, where a ride up the Rio Frio takes you right into the wildlife refuge. Its location is pretty isolated, but for nature lovers a visit to Cano Negro National Wildlife Refuge is a must, because the flatlands offer a unique combination of lush, green vegetation and a maze of waterways leading to a beautiful lagoon. During the rainy season plenty of water is coming down from the mountains and fills the 800 hectare wide lagoon and plains of Cano Negro and make this area a favorite feeding ground for many animals. Migratory birds frequent the Cano Negro Wildlife Refuge and more than 200 species of birds have been spotted, including the rare Nicaraguan grackle which only lives in this part of Costa Rica. Another unexpected migrant is the bull shark swimming up the Rio Nicaragua from the sea to feed in a sweet water environment. After the rainy season the flatlands and the lagoon slowly dry up and only the main channels such as the Rio Frio remain accessible. It’s not well known that Cano Negro offers a great spot to do some sport fishing. Actually fishing inside the Wildlife Refuge is permitted during most months of the year and a license can be purchased at the ranger station in the town of Cano Negro. It’s recommended to bring your own gear, since there are no organized tours available and you have to be satisfied with a local guide and boat to find the huge tarpon, snook and guapote (rainbow bass) you are looking for. There are some decent lodges in the area that offer several tours and transportation from San Jose. When you are in the area of the Arenal Volcano, consider moving north an visit the Cano Negro National Wildlife Refuge and experience an amazing encounter with the natural beauty of these wetlands.

The city of Nicoya is not known as a tourist destination and mostly is only visited on the way to other places on the Nicoya Peninsula in Costa Rica’s Province of Guanacaste. The town of Nicoya is one of the oldest cities, founded by the Spanish colonists. The name oif the town and the peninsula has Indigenous roots, because Nicoya was the name of the chief of the Chorotega tribe at the time of the Spanish conquests. When the Spanish explorers coming from Nicaragua entered what is now known as the Guanacaste Province they were overwhelmed by the lush tropical environment where they found an indigenous civilization that was organized in groups and tribes. This network of tribes covered almost the entire country of Costa Rica, including the highlands of the Central Valley. Scientists estimate that at least 400,000 Indians populated the Provinces of Guanacaste and Puntarenas. Living of agriculture, fishing and hunting the tribes had a rich cultural tradition that has partly withstood the centuries. In Nicoya beautiful Indigenous handicraft such as hammocks, pottery and baskets can be bought. A special drink called ‘chicha’ made from fermented corn used to play an important role in religious ceremonies, but is still being made and consumed on more plain occasions. In the center of Nicoya in its Central Park you can find one of Costa Rica’s oldest churches Iglesia de San Blas, built in the 17th century. Nicoya has all the facilities in the form of banks, stores, restaurants, hotels to make it a perfect stop-over on the way to other destinations in Guanacaste. From Nicoya Route 150 leads to the town of Samara on the Pacific Coast.

The small town of Mal Pais is located on the west coast of the tip of the Nicoya Peninsula and is part of Costa Rica’s Province of Puntarenas. The way to drive to Mal Pais is to take the highway from the Central Valley to the port of Puntarenas, where a ferry leaves for Paquera on the Nicoya Peninsula. Who doesn’t want to waste too much time on traveling, can take a domestic flight from Juan Santamaria International Airport in Alajuela or Pavas’ Tobias Bolanos Airport in San Jose to Tambor. From there it’s a short drive rounding the tip of the Nicoya Peninsula through Montezuma and by the Cabo Blanco National Park. The rocky beaches, with stretches of sand measure more than 6 kilometers in length and are considered to belong to the best of the country. Not only because they are bordered by green, tropical vegetation along the entire coast line, but also because its tranquility. Although Mal Pais has some pretty decent waves that will satisfy both the beginner as the more experienced surfer, most surfers prefer to try their luck a few miles south of Mal Pais on Playa Santa Teresa. That contributes to the very laid back atmosphere of Mal Pais, where you can enjoy paradise as it was meant to be enjoyed. Lots of migratory birds travel through the isthmus and pass or rest in the area of Mal Pais, so for birdwatchers it offers good opportunities. There are plenty of accommodations to be found in Mal Pais, for every kind of budget. There are several nice bars and restaurants, where fresh seafood forms the main part of the menus. As in many places on the pacific coast of Costa Rica there are plenty of activities that can be booked, from hiking, mountain biking, canopy tours to water activities as sport fishing, scuba diving, snorkeling and kayaking. Nightlife is pleasant, offering quiet and more bubbling locals. But from either there is nothing better than to watch the sunset in Mal Pais with a tropical cocktail in your hand.

On the Pacific Coast in Costa Rica’s Province of Puntarenas, close to the town of Uvita the Ballena Marine Park is situated. The park covers the beaches between the southern part of Playa Hermosa and the northern edge of Playa Pinuela and almost 10 miles of open sea westward. Inside the park are the sandy beaches of Uvita and Ballena, where green marine iguanas can be spotted, warming up in the hot sand and diving in the ocean to feed on the algae on the rocks. It’s also where marine turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. The season for the Olive Ridley and Hawksbill turtles is from May till November, although the highest numbers can be spotted in September. You have to be very careful not to disturb the turtles by wearing dark clothes, no perfume or mosquito repellent and only infra red flashlights should be used. The turtles always come back to the same stretch of beach and recognize the smell and look of it and are easily disturbed. After the turtle finishes digging the hole for the eggs and starts the process of laying, it goes in a trance and can safely be approached. Between the beaches there are stretches of magnificent mangrove forests and off shore one of the most beautiful coral reefs is situated.. The waters of the Marino Ballena Marine Park are favorite feeding grounds of turtles, sharks, dolphins, marlin, tuna, and manta rays and sail fish. The most impressive spectacle of the Marino Ballena Marine Park is provided by the Humpback whales, that gave the park its name. From both hemispheres the whales migrate from the cold waters of the arctic circles to the warm waters of Costa Rica to mate and give birth, after traveling more than 10,000 miles. The whales can be spotted in the Marino Ballena Marine Park almost all year long, except in the months of May, December, January, February and March. Especially the area around Isla del Cano is preferred by the whales, because of its shallow waters. Thousands of dolphins live in the water of Marino Ballena National Park and can be spotted al year round. The coral reefs offer a spectacular stage where the colorful marine life can be observed scuba diving and snorkeling. The perfect starting point to visit the Marino Ballena Marine Park is the small town of Uvita, approximately 10 miles south of the popular surfing town of Dominical. It’s a long drive away from San Jose in the Central Valley, but definitely worth it.

In the Province of Puntarenas, just a couple of kilometers off the Interamericana Highway, between the cities of San Isidro de El General and Palmar Sur, the town of Buenos Aires is located. In pre-Colombian times the area around Buenos Aires was inhabited by the indigenous tribes of the Borucas. That they occupied a vast region has been proved by the discovery of many cemeteries. In the year 1563 the Spanish conqueror Juan Vazquez de Coronado fought a ferocious campaign against the Coto tribes on the Caribbean side of the Talamanca mountains and worked his way to the Buenos Aires region. In 1700 the Franciscan monks founded a missionary town amidst the indigenous population in the Talamanca mountains. It took till 1868 that the Costa Rican government issued a contract to Don Pedro Calderon to open up the area by constructing trails connecting to the existing roads to Panama. In 1870 he settled with his family and founded the town of Buenos Aires. Twenty years later the town of Buenos Aires had only 170 inhabitants. The real growth of the town began in 1960 when the Interamericana Highway between San Isidro de El General and Buenos Aires was completed and many people coming from the Central Valley settled in Buenos Aires. Despite the invasion of these ‘foreigners’ the Indigenous tribe of the Borucas remains present in the territory of Rey Curre, more than 10,000 hectares wide on both banks of the Rio Grande de Terraba. Around 1,000 Boruca Indians live there from agriculture, cultivating rice, beans, corn, plantains and fruits. When visiting the region of Buenos Aires it is certainly worthwhile to visit the Borucas and experience their simple lifestyle which is in complete harmony with nature. Their culture preserved from pre-Colombian times is still alive today and their magnificent masks and textiles are sold to tourists to generate a small income for the tribe. Already being pushed back by non-Indigenous landowners who own more than 80 percent of the land in the Buenos Aires region, the Indigenous tribe of the Borucas are confronted with another threat in the form a an energy project. Since the 1970’s plans have been in discussion to build dams to generate hydro-electric energy. The initial plans projected a devastating impact for more than 7 Indigenous reserves that have to be relocated completely from the Buenos Aires region. Protests emerged and new studies of the environmental impact delayed the project for decades, but never took it off the agenda. So up till this day the Boruca Indians of Buenas Aires live in uncertainty.

Leaving San Jose and Cartago in the Central Valley behind and by following the Interamericana Highway you cross one of Costa Rica’s most impressive mountain ranges, the Cerro de La Muerte. Coming down in the Valley of the General River, which runs down westward from the slopes of the Talamanca mountains to the Pacific Ocean, the first big town on the road is San Isidro de El General. San Isidro de El General got its official name in 1910. Founded as Quebradas de Los Chanchos (Ravines of the Pigs), the name changed to Urena, before the name it has nowadays became official by decreed in 1954. The town of San Isidro del General, part of the Province of San Jose, is the center of a valley that prospers thanks to the agricultural activities and has a population of more than 140,000 inhabitants. With an average temperature of 24 degrees centigrade the conditions are perfect for growing coffee and on the mountain slopes at an altitude between 400 and 1,200 meters you can see many plantations, producing coffee that is marketed under the name Café Buena Vista. The people of San Isidro de El General used to make the journey to the Central Valley by foot and had to cross the rugged mountain ranges of the Cerro de La Muerte; the mountain of death. The trails could be slippery because of the rain and fog often reduced the visibility so much that a lot of people did not survive the trip, which could take up more than 4 days. Now the 120 kilometer long trip from San Jose to San Isidro de El General takes no more than 4 hours and the route offers impressive views of the mountains. San Isidro de El General is the perfect place to make a stop, before continuing the journey to Dominical in the Province of Puntarenas, only 30 kilometers ahead on the Pacific Coast. Most of the traffic will continue its way to Canoas on the border with Panama. In February San Isidro de El General is filled with people from all over the valley to attend the yearly agricultural festival. Highlights are the cattle show and the fair, where you can get a good taste of the authentic Costa Rican farming life and of course of the typical food, made of fresh ingredients grown in the region. From San Isidro, following the Interamericana Highway south, the first city in the Province of Puntarenas is Buenas Aires, where the Indian Reserve of the Burucas del Rey Curre can be visited.