Travel Blog Costa Rica

In the north of Costa Rica’s Province of Alajuela, all the way up to the border with Nicaragua, one of the most impressive tropical wetlands can be found. Cano Negro National Wildlife Refuge is an almost 10,000 hectares big, protected, uninhabited natural treasure. The best way to reach Cano Negro is by boat, departing form the town of Los Chiles, where a ride up the Rio Frio takes you right into the wildlife refuge. Its location is pretty isolated, but for nature lovers a visit to Cano Negro National Wildlife Refuge is a must, because the flatlands offer a unique combination of lush, green vegetation and a maze of waterways leading to a beautiful lagoon. During the rainy season plenty of water is coming down from the mountains and fills the 800 hectare wide lagoon and plains of Cano Negro and make this area a favorite feeding ground for many animals. Migratory birds frequent the Cano Negro Wildlife Refuge and more than 200 species of birds have been spotted, including the rare Nicaraguan grackle which only lives in this part of Costa Rica. Another unexpected migrant is the bull shark swimming up the Rio Nicaragua from the sea to feed in a sweet water environment. After the rainy season the flatlands and the lagoon slowly dry up and only the main channels such as the Rio Frio remain accessible. It’s not well known that Cano Negro offers a great spot to do some sport fishing. Actually fishing inside the Wildlife Refuge is permitted during most months of the year and a license can be purchased at the ranger station in the town of Cano Negro. It’s recommended to bring your own gear, since there are no organized tours available and you have to be satisfied with a local guide and boat to find the huge tarpon, snook and guapote (rainbow bass) you are looking for. There are some decent lodges in the area that offer several tours and transportation from San Jose. When you are in the area of the Arenal Volcano, consider moving north an visit the Cano Negro National Wildlife Refuge and experience an amazing encounter with the natural beauty of these wetlands.

On the Pacific Coast in Costa Rica’s Province of Puntarenas, close to the town of Uvita the Ballena Marine Park is situated. The park covers the beaches between the southern part of Playa Hermosa and the northern edge of Playa Pinuela and almost 10 miles of open sea westward. Inside the park are the sandy beaches of Uvita and Ballena, where green marine iguanas can be spotted, warming up in the hot sand and diving in the ocean to feed on the algae on the rocks. It’s also where marine turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. The season for the Olive Ridley and Hawksbill turtles is from May till November, although the highest numbers can be spotted in September. You have to be very careful not to disturb the turtles by wearing dark clothes, no perfume or mosquito repellent and only infra red flashlights should be used. The turtles always come back to the same stretch of beach and recognize the smell and look of it and are easily disturbed. After the turtle finishes digging the hole for the eggs and starts the process of laying, it goes in a trance and can safely be approached. Between the beaches there are stretches of magnificent mangrove forests and off shore one of the most beautiful coral reefs is situated.. The waters of the Marino Ballena Marine Park are favorite feeding grounds of turtles, sharks, dolphins, marlin, tuna, and manta rays and sail fish. The most impressive spectacle of the Marino Ballena Marine Park is provided by the Humpback whales, that gave the park its name. From both hemispheres the whales migrate from the cold waters of the arctic circles to the warm waters of Costa Rica to mate and give birth, after traveling more than 10,000 miles. The whales can be spotted in the Marino Ballena Marine Park almost all year long, except in the months of May, December, January, February and March. Especially the area around Isla del Cano is preferred by the whales, because of its shallow waters. Thousands of dolphins live in the water of Marino Ballena National Park and can be spotted al year round. The coral reefs offer a spectacular stage where the colorful marine life can be observed scuba diving and snorkeling. The perfect starting point to visit the Marino Ballena Marine Park is the small town of Uvita, approximately 10 miles south of the popular surfing town of Dominical. It’s a long drive away from San Jose in the Central Valley, but definitely worth it.

In the north of Costa Rica’s Province of Limon, above Tortuguero National Park, the Barra del Colorado National Wildlife Refuge is located. It consists of more than 90,000 hectares of protected rainforest and wetlands. The north boundary of the Barra del Colorado is formed by the Rio San Juan, the natural border with Nicaragua. The southern boundary is formed by the Tortuguero National Park. Barra del Colorado is located in such a remote area that is very hard to reach by land. It is possible to take a bus in San Jose that will take you to Cariari, where a bus leaves for Puerto Lindo on the banks of the Colorado River. The last part of the travel has to be by boat to reach the village of Barra del Colorado. The village is divided in two parts on either side of the Colorado River. Barra del Sur has an airfield, that can be reached with domestic flights from Juan Santamaria International Airport in Alajuela and Tobias Bolanos Airport in Pavas, San Jose. The town of Barra del Colorado is not an exciting tourist destination, since it’s very rundown. It used to live off logging, but after being declared a wildlife refuge, this source of income dried up, although even today the fight against illegal logging continues. The San Juan River has been subject of a long-lasting border dispute with Nicaragua. A treaty signed by both nations in 1858 declared the San Juan River as common property of both republics, but today the river is completely Nicaraguan territory. Although Costa Ricans have the right to use the river, foreigners are charged by the Nicaraguan authorities who control the water traffic. So you better keep your passport at hand. The Barra del Colorado Refuge is a very wet area and can best be accessed by boat. There are very little accommodations n Barra de Colorado and since the village is not that tourist friendly, it’s recommended to book in advance to stay in one of the few hotels and lodges. On the other hand it’s especially this remoteness that gives Barra del Colorado a special touch that is attractive to eco-tourists and sport fish enthusiasts. The first can explore the magnificent primary rain forest with all its hidden treasures that can be discovered with the help of local guides. The sport fishermen can find their challenges on the river or the Caribbean sea, both easy accessible and considered as one of the best spots in the world.